Religious Rights Denied Even During Ramadan
By Khalid Amayreh
Journalist — Occupied Palestine
Normally, the trip from al-Khalil (Hebron) to al-Quds (Jerusalem) shouldn’t take more than 30 to 40 minutes. However, for most Palestinians in the West Bank, and thanks to the chronically harsh Israeli restrictions, the trip becomes a torturous episode of physical and mental suffering.
With the start of the Holy month of Ramadan, the Israeli occupation authorities announced that Palestinians over the age of 50 would be allowed to enter Jerusalem but only for Friday’s congregational prayers at al Masjidul Aqsa (the Aqsa Mosque). The Mosque, with its large and beautiful esplanade, is considered the third holiest Islamic place in the world, coming directly after the Sacred Mosque in Makkah and the Prophet's Mosque in Madina, peace and blessings be upon him (PBUH).
According to traditions, the heavenly reward for a single Raka’a (one unit of ritual prayer posturing) at al-Masjidul Aqsa is worth 500 times more than a regular place.
Al-Masjidul Aqsa is also the place to which the Prophet Muhammed (PBUH) made his night journey from Makkah and then was immediately afterward taken by the archangel Gabriel to the throne of God in the seventh heaven. The miraculous event is recorded in a special chapter in the Qur'an bearing the name of al-Isra’a, meaning “The Night Journey”
This explains the paramount importance Muslims in general and Palestinians in particular attach to the place. It also explains why hundreds of thousands of believers make sure that they access the Jerusalem sanctuary for prayer and supplication to the Almighty especially during the month of Ramadan, during which good deeds motivated by sincere intentions are rewarded (in the hereafter).
Having just passed the 50-year mark, I decided to make the trip to the "First Qibla and Third Holiest sanctuary,' armed with a believer’s hope for spiritual serenity and also a journalist’s instinct to see directly how Israel is metamorphosing the city of timeless beauty into "the capital of Israel," by employing every conceivable means of oppression and ethnic cleansing against the constantly hounded Palestinian citizens of the city.
Shin Beth; Misery
Palestinians from the West Bank are not allowed to access Jerusalem with their own cars unless they have a special permit from the Shin Beth, that is Israel’s notorious domestic security agency. Normally, only "good guys" are granted such privileges, e.g. those viewed as "peaceable" or "collaborators."
This means that over 99% of ordinary Palestinians living in the West Bank (Gazans cannot even dream of reaching Jerusalem these days) must use public transport to reach Jerusalem. This is, of course, in case they pass the usually meticulous "security check."
I set off my journey soon after dawn, around 4:20 local time. After nearly 30 minutes, we arrived at the dreadful "border crossing" at Bethlehem’s northern edge. There we disembarked, preparing ourselves mentally for the nightmarish experience we were just about to face.
The Bethlehem "border crossing" is a jungle of corrugated roofs, narrow steel corridors, metal railings, revolving gates, remote-controlled turnstiles as well as metal detectors.
The place is also a de facto military fort, crowded with onerous-looking soldiers and Shin Beth functionaries. The Shin Beth, one can safely claim, controls nearly every aspect of Palestinian lives, from receiving a work permit to obtaining a travel permit.
No Palestinian, such as this writer, is allowed to travel outside the West Bank unless okayed by the Shin Beth. Normally, the ban is motivated by non-substantive considerations, like indulging in non-violent opposition to the Israeli occupation. The message here is clear: Palestinians will only receive human treatment (if) they are politically passive.
Soon, we found ourselves thoroughly packed in that long and narrow path which took us to the Shin Beth booths 100-150 meters away where ID cards are checked. The experience was particularly nightmarish, as hundreds of people were being sandwiched between two steel railings, and moving at a snail’s pace. The women walked through a different path and were subjected to considerably lesser scrutiny.
After nearly one hour of squeezing nightmare, we finally joined another long queue for the frustrating security check. I saw some fairly elderly Palestinians, people over sixty years of age being turned back for "security reasons". I couldn’t understand how these elderly people would pose a threat to Israel’s security. But this is the mantra whose invocation justifies anything as far as Israel is concerned.
Some of the people turned back were visibly saddened at their misfortune. Others standing in the queue would comfort them by assuring them that the Almighty would reward them for making the trial.
I, too, had "my hand at my heart", worried that I would be turned back for "security reasons". But this time, I was obviously lucky as the Shin Beth computer must have decided to give me the benefit of the doubt.
Al-Quds is Muslim
I was thoroughly relieved that I would finally be able to enter the Old Town of Jerusalem and join other Muslims for this huge gathering at one of Islam’s holiest places.
As I walked in the exit corridor (corridors are ubiquitous in this place!!), I immediately boarded an awaiting bus en route to al-Quds. After 15 minutes, we were outside Bab El-Amud (the Gate of the Pillar), also known as the Damascus Gate, which is one of the main nine entrances into the Old Town.
So we walked through the hustling bustling streets and alleyways of this ancient city where every stone and every corner has the smell of history.
On our way, we saw a number of buildings taken over or expropriated through "legal" tricks by Jewish settler interests. Israel has been making strenuous and nearly rabid efforts to confiscate and Judaize as much of East Jerusalem as possible, employing every conceivable act of deception and manipulation.
The buildings are heavily guarded by armed soldiers and guardsmen who try to create physical as well as mental “security zones” in the vicinity of the buildings, apparently in order to intimidate Palestinians, all for the purpose of Judaizing the city, building by building, corner by corner, even stone by stone.
We arrived at the Haram al-Sharif (the Aqsa Mosque esplanade) early in the morning, probably half an hour after sunrise to find thousands of people roaming the spacious arena or sitting down immersed in contemplation. Most of the worshipers came from across the West Bank, but many came from Arab towns and villages across the Green Line inside Israel.
The Supreme Muslim Council, which cares for the huge compound, seems to do a particularly good job, keeping up the place in the best of conditions. This is particularly apparent during the month of Ramadan when tens of thousands come for the Friday and night (tarawih) prayers.
The council also employs dozens of unarmed guards whose main job is to watch over possible attempts by extremist Jewish groups, and also by evangelical Christian Zionists, to attack and vandalize the place.
Indeed, many Jewish groups, some affiliated with the Israeli government, say openly that their goal is ultimately to destroy al-Masjidul Aqsa and its other twin mosque, the Dome of the Rock, in order to build a Jewish Temple in the area.
Some messianic Jews believe the destruction of Islamic shrines in Jerusalem would speed up the appearance of the Jewish Messiah, or Redeemer, who would subjugate the entire world and bring about "redemption" for Jews.
Such designs are taken seriously by the Muslim authorities. Muslim Waqf (endowment) officials argue convincingly that Israel is trying rather progressively to take over the Haram al-Sharif or see it destroyed as a result of a series of subterranean tunnels opened in recent years.
Adnan al Husseini, head of the Supreme Muslim Council, describes Israeli measures as “parts of a dangerous plan to demolish the Aqsa Mosque.”
"If we are to call things by their name, we must view the Israeli designs and plots against al-Masjidul Aqsa as deliberate and well-planned acts of terror aimed at demolishing the mosques and Judaizing this Islamic edifice".
Many of the worshipers were simply sitting down on rugs they brought with them, reciting the Qur'an or performing prayers. Others were scouring the place, inspecting the numerous historical sites many of which date hundreds of years back.
All in all, as many as a quarter of a million people made it to the Haram al Sharif, Waqf officials said the number would have doubled had the Israelis allowed younger people to enter the city.
Above our heads an Israeli police helicopter was hovering provocatively as if it wanted to tell us that "we are in control". This is in addition to a huge balloon fitted with a large camera monitoring the place and the movement of worshipers.
Soon, the time for the Friday Khutba (sermon) started, and Dr. Sheikh Ikrema Sabri, a veteran Muslim scholar, thanked the fasting worshipers, telling them that their very presence constituted an important message to Israel, namely that this place was, is and will always be Islamic.
Sheikh Sabri pointed out that the Islamic faith was growing all over the world, not because of the military or economic might of Muslims, but rather because of Islam’s internal strength, cohesion and consistency.
The Sheikh strongly castigated those who would recognize Israel as a "Jewish state", saying that doing so amounted to passing a death penalty against the large Palestinian community in Israel.
Sabri also reiterated an earlier fatwa or religious edict, ruling that any Muslim selling land or property to Jewish settler interests was "no longer considered a member of the Muslim Ummah, wouldn’t undergo the final rites upon death, nor would they be buried in a Muslim cemetery".
After ending the Khutba and performing the brief prayer, most of the worshipers dispersed throughout the Old Town, shopping or just simply making the journey back home.
For my part, I wasn’t particularly too homesick to leave and decided to tarry for a while, unsure if I could make it again.
The next Friday, I shall see.
Khalid Amayreh is a journalist living in Palestine. He obtained his MA in journalism from the University of Southern Illinois in 1983. Since the 1990s, Mr. Amayreh has been working and writing for several news outlets among which is Aljazeera.net, Al-Ahram Weekly, Islamic Republic News Agency (IRNA), and Middle East International. He can be reached through politics.indepth@iolteam.com
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